Showing posts with label costumes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label costumes. Show all posts

Tuesday, 6 July 2010

Breton Costumes! by Judy D

It is almost impossible to collect Quimper pottery without developing an appreciation for Breton (and other) costumes ... the figures on the various pieces serve as references for the costumes of different areas at different eras. So it is not surprising that the pièce de résistance at a pottery auction last weekend was a costume, and in fact, it was the costume whose details are on the cover of the catalogue for that sale.


As I noted in my previous blog, this costume is thought to be the oldest dated example of a Breton garment. It is black heavy felted wool, with red embroidery, including the buttons and dated 1811 - it would have been a special order for a well-off Breton. Costume collectors are as fierce faience collectors: the estimation fo the costume was 1200-1500 euros, but the bidding shot up to 5000 euros in pretty short order. At that point, there was a pause while an absent bidder was tracked down on the phone, after which the bidding climbed to the final gavel price of 6000 euros (to which a buyer's fee of 19% must be added!). This piece made yesterday's paper, including a comment from the auctioneer that the jacket will remain in France.









For all of its historical significance, the black jacket is extremely sober, too much so for my personal taste.
On the other hand, this bridal costume (of which the back is shown here) of Plogonnec (west of Quimper) from about 1880 is full of color and texture, including wool, ribbons, embroidered lace, and glass beads. It sold for 1500 euros, and it is stunning!


And how about this one for a little boy??
In wool, from the beginning of the 20th century, gavel price 300 euros.




















During the exhibit, I asked the costume expert which one he personally preferred - he told me that it was this one:


He said he liked it because it was a complete costume of the wife of a craftsman of Quimperlé (east of Quimper), and it gives clues to the lifestyle of the wearer. One can see the social standing of the lady by the elegant touches on her dress. The color of the black is a bronzed shade that would have cost more money to dye. There is black velvet edging her pockets as well as her sleeves and the back of the top of the dress. The quality of the fabric is another indicator of her economic class, and the quality is such that over 100 years later, the costume is in excellent condition.

Actually, one thing that amazes me is how good the condition of many of the costumes were. Some were undoubtedly specially preserved by families (particularly wedding costumes, I would think), but even so, you have to start with a good product to be able to keep it good for 100+ years.
We're linking this post of Judy's to "A Few Of My Favourites Things Saturdays" meme held by Laurie each week, on her blog entitled: Bargain Hunting and Chatting with Laurie. I think Laurie has a soft spot for Quimper although we haven't yet persuaded her to join QCI.
Please go over and visit with her & tell her all the good reasons why she would enjoy our group.

Thursday, 20 August 2009

HB Quimper broderie decor....by Maggie Bryant






From comments posted on my last blog post it would seem that I am not alone in admiring Breton costumes and coiffes.


Gay reminded me that author & guest blogger Adela Meadows wrote about the Traditional Costumes of Finistere in Vol 8 and Vol 9 of the Journal and that there are back issues available if you do not have them already.




You may remember that last month past President Judy Datesman wrote two blogs about the wonderful Fête des Brodeuses in Pont-l'Abbé, the photographs made you want to be there yourself.



If you have just discovered our Club blog then why not take a moment or two to read the very interesting posts of our previous bloggers.




In the 1920's the Grande maison de la Hubaudiere began producing a new line of faïence pieces decorated with wedding, christening and market scenes, peopled by men women & children all wearing traditional costumes.


What made these pieces special however were the intricate border decorations, inspired by the embroidery used to embellish costumes such as those worn by the participants in the Fête des Brodeuses.
Some pieces were decorated solely a la poire such as this large platter that resides upon the mantlepiece in my dining room. It has a diameter of 55 centimetres and weighs approx. 5 kilos!

Close up of the centre of the large platter above.







The technique of applying the paint to the surface of the piece was known as à la poire, perlé or tubé décor and was acheived with the aid of a small rubber pear shaped tool, the poire, which had been designed specifically for the task. Small beads of coloured glaze were applied to the surface of the piece creating an effect similar to raised icing on a cake.





Many chargers, vases, and plates were produced bearing striking Celtic motifs such as hearts, grapes & vines.






The pink, green, white and ochre glazes contrasting beautifully against the deep cobalt blue or sometimes brown background.




Post WWII a new variation of the decor emerged incorporating gold accents, however, due to the rising costs involved in such a labour intensive process, manufacture of the decor ceased in the 1950's.